Slightly Hanoi'd


This title was my own creation, and has nothing to do with the Good Morning, Vietnam soundtrack that I am still listening to.

So! My adventures in Ho Chi Minh City ended with a slight mishap in determining which terminal I belonged in.  And the beginning of my adventures in Hanoi began with a silent taxi ride (my driver didn’t speak much English and seemed to enjoy the silence) through the night.  The hostile I booked in Hanoi, Central Backpackers Hostel, does airport pickup service, so for the first time I got to feel like one of those special people who have to look for their names on a piece of paper.
See how far away Hanoi is from Ho Chi Minh City!
 

My first impression of Hanoi…well, by this point, I was tired of the city because I usually dislike cities anyway.  To make matters worse, Hanoi is much busier and crowded than Ho Chi Minh.  I stayed in the Old District where there is a lack of tall architecture, the streets are narrower, and there is no end to the amount of clothing and shoe shops in sight.  Hanoi is incredibly busy, and has some of the craziest traffic I’ve ever seen.  During my stay in Hanoi, one of my friends, Elias, walked out in front of a car so that we could cross a sea of traffic that never stops.

So, Central Backpackers Hostel is amazing.  It’s cheap, has awesome people, free bia hoi (the fresh brew that costs 4000 dong, approximately 5 cents) from 7-8 pm, free breakfast (consists of banana, bread, jelly, butter, and tea or coffee), provides lots of different kinds of trips.  The best part was the people I met there. More on that throughout this post.
This dorm was super great and full of bed friends!

First order= dinner.  After free beer hour, I went to dinner with my newfound friend and dormmate, Elias from France.  We ate at Quan An Ngon Restaurant.  It was okay- too pricey for so little, but this is working in the mindset of a poor college student/traveler and a backpacker.  Make sure you ask about the sizes of the dishes because what you would think would be a served in a large proportion, could be the size of your fist.  The restaurant is cool though- it has the same community as street food on the sidewalk with a classy flavor and decor, distance from the traffic, and way more options.
Lotus seed "dessert". Way too sweet, but yummers
 

That night, I just took it easy talking to different backpackers at the hostel.  Beyond where people have travelled, it’s amazing to get a glimpse into what occupations they left behind, some of their hobbies, what their friends are like, etc.  Everyone is so different, yet everyone is tied in this cycle of wanting to experience the world and going on pretty much the same route to do it.  In terms of future travel, I also discovered through these people social networking websites geared towards helping backpackers such as Couch Surfing and Be Welcome.

Next day, I made Elias my exploration companion to explore the west end of the district.  We passed the large statue of Vladimir Lenin, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Presidential Palace, and the One-Pillar Pagoda.  The sights were rather boring, and we didn’t spend long in any location.  The palace should have been more exciting, but it was basically a bunch of sparsely decorated rooms and old cars that you viewed through glass.
Ze mausoleum, where I got yelled at for stepping over the yellow line

Presidential Palace, the most obnoxiously yellow building in Hanoi
 

I went to the Temple of Literature, where Confucius taught a bunch of students, afterwards.  It was an interesting mixture of modern topiaries and old buildings.  I find Chinese architecture and idols really beautiful and interesting, but I was so tired of looking at religious art, statues, and buildings, that I felt pooped.  Despite this feeling, I definitely like the temple a lot.
Turtle stelae at the temple

That night, Maia arrived in Hanoi, but she was exhausted from her journey in Luang Prabang in Laos, so I went out with some people at the hostel. During free beer hour, I sat with some people that I knew, and met some more people.  After a few beers, a group of us went to get dinner two shops away, and thus the party group was formed.  We ended up at a dance club where I discovered that I am an amazing dancer according to the reactions of the surrounding folk.  Here’s some advice for you other young ladies who love to dance: in Hanoi, there are plenty of gross foreign older men who like to try to watch young ladies dance and try to dance with them or more.  So, if you can’t take it, don’t shake it.
My dance partners
 

Next day, I spent the day exploring the area around Hoan Kiem Lake with Maia. Most of it was just walking around and getting a feel for the city, which I won’t explain, but here’s a quick and dirty list of what we did.

1)      The Hoa Loa Prison where the French displaced a village to build their own institutions.  Many Vietnamese prisoners were tortured here, and later, American soldiers were held captive.  This was a very depressing place, and the creepy factor was heightened by the sounds of fearful music.  My only problem with the museum was the Communist propaganda.  While John McCain says that he was tortured in this prison, the museum posts descriptions of the Vietnamese treating the Americans as best they could.  They were provided with basic comforts, were allowed to play basketball, and colored pictures for Christmas.  I find this hard to believe, but whatever.  If anyone has anything to say in support of the museum’s statements, please tell me.

The scariest room in the building

2)      The shrine on Hoan Kiem Lake.  This was a cute little place with the largest imitation of a turtle I’ve ever seen, and the tiniest bathroom stalls.  I’m a rather small person, yet my face was an inch away from the door- I would not call that one a happy room. I urge everyone to click on the above link to read the legend about the Restored Sword; this is how the lake got its name, and it was the inspiration for one of the plots that I watched at the water puppet theatre show.

3)      TrangTien ice cream parlor.  Soft serve ice cream for 10,000 dong (50 cents)? Heck yes! It was “so damn hot I saw one them little men in those orange robes burst into flames” (Adrian Cronauer- I didn’t really see that), so the ice cream was a welcome treat.

4)      St.Joseph Cathedral.  It’s really pretty, but we didn’t get to go inside.
It is grey and magnificent
 

5)      Lotteria for a water and air conditioning break.  Lotteria is a fast food chain in Vietnam.

6)      We bought water puppet tickets to see a show later that night (it’s necessary to buy your tickets earlier in the day so that you can see the show at the time you want), but we ended up not going because we were so exhausted by the end of the day that the thought walking through the overwhelmingly crowded streets any more was about as appealing as juggling my brother’s smelly athletic shoes.

7)      We walked through the large Night Market along the streets of Hang Ngang and Hang Dao. It’s like Walking Market in Thailand, but with copious amounts of traffic and crowding within the stalls.  At the end of the street is the Dong Xuan Market.  I was so overwhelmed by the crowds that I didn’t have the energy or desire to look inside.  Besides, not all the shops were open by this point, and I hate shopping.
This picture doesn't even capture the busy-ness of this street.

8)      We ate street food and experienced the tiny chair culture.  It was awesome, and the food that we ate on the street was my favorite meal that I’d had in Hanoi.  I’m not sure what it was- I think it was green papaya salad with beef, peanuts, and herbs dumped in some sweet juice.  It seems to be similar to Bun bo Nam Bo, but it could be Nom Du Du.  (Other recipe- Pho Bo, another food to try- there are sandwich kebab vendors everywhere and oh my god they are so tasty)

Table for two!

I'm really hungry right now.  For real.  I can't wait until my Mexican food gets here.
 

So that pretty much concludes my adventures in Hanoi! Hanoi is a very crowded city, and I didn’t do a lot of the things that one could do there. The city offers a bunch of different museums for people depending on one’s interests (Fine Arts Museum, Museum of Ethnology, Vietnamese History, Women’s Museum, etc.), trips to Sapa, etc. The buildings are amazing because you can see a wide variety of buildings within one block- Chinese architecture, French architecture, modern buildings, run-down buildings, fancy and clean buildings, and more…all stuck together in a weird combination.  It’s quite fascinating.  Hanoi was okay, but I was ready for HALONG BAY!

Admire the diversity.
 

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